Below: in the middle of Thailand and Cambodia
We were the only foreigners (and only among a few overall) that were crossing this border point into Cambodia at this time of the day: mid/ late-afternoon. However, looking across the road, there was a long line waiting to enter Thailand. Just as we crossed into Cambodian territory, we were hussled over to a table whose sign read "Quarantine". They took our temperature in our ear, and then we paid 20 baht to get a useless medical sheet, that basically said we were OK. As we walked away, Rachel and I both looked at each other with raised eyebrows, and agreed that that was probably unnecessary, and they just scammed us out of 20 baht. Ah well, so it goes. And if that's the worst thing that happens at a border crossing, then there's nothing to complain about.
We had no issues getting our visas, despite all the problems and hassles we were expecting after reading horror stories online. The woman who was stamping and signing our visas first seemed like she was having the worst day of her life. Then she glanced up at me, at my passport, back at me, and gave the common, confused look of "Your passport is American, but you are Asian?!" After I explained to her that I was born in Korea, she was all of the sudden our best friend, along with everyone else in the office.
While we were having our passports stamped at the window, a bunch of Cambodian men circled us, engaging us in your regular "what's your name", "where are you from", "where are you going" questions. They were taxi drivers, or all worked as those men who try to get you on some sort of transportation for their company. They were nice. And we wanted to get to Sihanoukville, our first destination. We had read online, and confirmed at the border, that the only bus leaving from Krong Koh Kong to Sihanoukville left at 8:00 in the morning. We were not especially looking forward to spending one of our only 7 nights in Cambodia in Krong Koh Kong, which was really just one of those decrepit 3rd world border towns. So, we agreed on a taxi - yes, our own, personal taxi - to Sihanoukville, about a 5 hour drive. It cost us 1,000 baht each! I know, ridiculous, but it was our one and only unnecessary large expense, and we just wanted to get there and begin our trip!
As for the taxi ride... in the first half-hour, we did some weird circling around Krong Koh Kong, down back-roads, u-turns, and at one point ended up at a desolate bus station out in the middle of nowhere. The driver stopped the car and got out. A bunch of Cambodian men started peering into the windows, trying to get a look at these foreigners! Yes, Rachel and I were a bit nervous, but in kind of a laughing way. I made some joke about us being sold into the white slave trade from here, and Rachel did not find that amusing. We were only there a few minutes, and then our taxi driver got back in and we drove off in the right, southerly direction. Who knows. Our taxi driver didn't speak a word of English.
After a couple hours, he stopped again to pick up 3 men along the side of the road. They were respectable looking and had suitcases. With no explanation, their luggage was stowed in the trunk, and then all 3 men got in the front, along with the driver! They actually tried to squeeze two in the driver's seat, and two in the passenger's seat. We drove along maybe a couple feet. The driver looked back at us and made gestures asking if it was OK if one of the men sat in the back with us. We agreed. They rode with us for about an hour or so, and then were let off at their destination, without detour, along the side of the same road. I could see how this would not be OK with so many people, but Rachel and I were very relaxed with the whole situation, and actually kind of felt a warming kindness towards our driver. We saw it as this: Our driver is so nice that he's helping out his fellow-country men. I mean, here we are in this entire car, just the three of us, and there are people who need rides all along the road. There were not too many cars going in our direction, and it was getting dark.
We reached Sihanoukville. And just as we thought we were headed to our exact destination - around Monkey Republic Bar and Bungalows, we did some more odd turns, circles and back-road driving. Our driver stopped multiple times to ask for directions. He seemed very confused, and we kept turning around. We tried to ask him questions and repeated "Monkey Republic" to him over and over again, which is a very known destination in Sihanoukville. What was the problem? He got on his cell phone, stopped to ask fruit stand sellers for more directions, and then drove down some sketchy dirt road. Rachel and I just looked at each other, confused as to whether he was actually lost. We pulled up to a house where a man and woman greeted our driver. They went around to the trunk and pulled out large sacks of unknown goods. It turned out that our ride also helped out the delivery of these sacks from the border to this house in Sihanoukville. Utilizing resources to the maximum. We were cool with it, and then just laughed at the confusion. He took us to our destination directly after. From Sri Racha, Thailand to Sihanoukville, Cambodia - all in one day!
Our awesome taxi.
The driver and 2 random men in front, and one in back with us.
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