The mini-van from Vang Vieng to Vientiane, the capital of Laos, broke down about an hour into the journey. We had to pull into a shop and get two tires fixed. No big deal, except that it delayed our arrival time in Vientiane by about two hours.
I didn't really know much about getting to Tham Kong Lo, except that I had to find a bus that went near Lak Sao/ Xao. When we finally reached the bus station, I discovered that I had to get to the southern bus terminal via a half hour tuk tuk ride. The woman at the ticket counter was incredibly helpful, and explained to me that I had to get to Ban Nahin/ Ban Khoun Kham in order to see Tham Kong Lo cave. However, there were no more buses today headed to Lak Sao/ Xao, which en route would drop me off in Ban Nahin. So, she put me on a public bus to Vieng Kham. No A/C. Open air windows. I was the only foreigner on the entire bus! Odd, as Tham Kong Lo is mentioned as a 'must see' destination in the Lonely Planet guide book. Was I doing this all wrong?
I met two very nice Chinese immigrant, now Laotian, sisters on the bus, with one squeezed into the tiny seat next to me, and the other sitting on a plastic chair in the aisle. It turned out they were headed to Vieng Kham as well - to their brother's shop/ house. When we stopped for a snack break, they helped me choose food from the market stalls. And when we finally reached Vieng Kham at around 10:30 pm, they helped me find a guesthouse. They had originally offered up a mat on the floor in their brother's shop/ home, but I gently declined by nodding that that would be nice, and not bringing it up again. I didn't want to impose and I really felt like just dropping into a deep slumber, without having to be on my best, polite, socializing behavior. I should've taken up on the offer.
The guesthouse was down a dirt road behind farm yards, about 7 minutes off the main road (the only paved road). It cost me 50,000 kip for the night, the most I had paid yet for accommodation in Laos. There was no running water. I had a bed with no mosquito net, a towel (for what?) and a squat toilet. There was no shower and no sink. I couldn't even brush my teeth. I had no bottled water. The walls looked blood-stained, and really, the whole motel-style room was eery enough to be in a horror movie. I didn't have much of a choice since it was so late at night, and I had no idea where I was. I didn't even realize the no water situation until the host and sisters had left. Once everyone was gone, and the door was closed, I stood in one spot in front of the door for about 15 minutes, skeptically assessing the room. I took a deep breath, set my stuff down, layered on the deet, laid down in the bed (on top of the comforter) and went to sleep.
I woke up at 6:00 am to catch a sawngtao - as the bus ticket counter woman had explained for me to do - from the main road heading through Ban Nahin. I stood on the main road for about half an hour, wondering where I had gone wrong. Still, no foreigners in sight. In fact, I was quite a spectacle for the local farmers and school children. Finally, one of the sisters found me hopelessly waiting on the side of the road, and she beckoned me to cross the street - conveniently, where her brother's shop was. She pulled me up a chair, and we sat waiting on the side of the road, while she put nuts and bolts together. After unsuccessfully hailing quite a few sawngtaos and inquiring if they could pick up a passenger, finally one stopped and allowed me to get on. It was stock full of vegetables and supplies, and... a motorbike tied into the back. I was the only passenger.
The journey to Ban Nahin from Vieng Kham is absolutely stunning, as the road - Route 8 - stretches through the limestone karst mountains of Phu Hin Bun NPA (National Protected Areas). Lonely Planet describes Route 8 "as like something out of a video game, with its smooth winding road through spectacular forest, hills and limstone karst scenery." Along the journey, we picked up two elderly women with chicken cargo - fully packed into bamboo strung cages. Sadly (in my urban mind), they were tied to the back of the sawngtao, right in front of the exhaust.
I knew that I wanted to stay at Mi Thuna Guesthouse - one of two accommodations listed in the Lonely Planet guide book. As we drove along Route 8 - me having absolutely no idea where I was or how far I was from my destination - I saw a huge sign: "Mi Thuna Guesthouse". But, in an instant, we were flying right past it. I tried knocking on the back windows, yelling out the side bars and ringing the broken buzzer. The two elderly women also tried all the same methods, but to no avail.
The drivers finally pulled into the little market town (rather, village market area) of Ban Nahin/ Ban Khoun Kham. I promptly got my stuff together, got off the sawngtao and walked back (with all my gear) in the direction towards Mi Thuna Guesthouse - perhaps, it was about a half hour walk.
This is only the beginning of my Ban Nahin adventure - much more to come...
Waiting on the main road in Vieng Kham for a sawngtao
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