Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat)

Since Liza was headed back north, after her week in Sri Racha, and I only had to sign-in on Friday, I decided this past weekend was perfect for making the trek up to Isan (the northeastern region of Thailand, and what some might call 'real' Thailand). After jumping on yet another slow bus from Sri Racha to Bangkok, we arrived at Ekkomai station - the wrong station. We wanted to be at Mochit, which is the north and northeastern bus terminal, but we didn't know. So, we got on the Ekkomai BTS station (skytrain) and rode towards Mochit, which is on the BTS, albeit the complete other end. Once we arrived, we asked some friendly co-passengers for directions to the bus terminal. They actually came out of the BTS station to help us into a cab, as we were nowhere near where we wanted to be. I tell you, one needs patience to travel in Thailand!

About 7 hours later, we arrived in Khorat, the largest city in northeastern Thailand with an estimated population of 215,000. Liza lives and teaches in MuongKong (or something like that), which is about an hour and a half train ride outside of Khorat. So, we checked into a hotel, ate and went to bed.

Our objective was to see the silk factories, which we managed to do after yet another traveling experience to Pak Thong Chai on Saturday. Thailand, if you don't already know, is famous for its silk, which comes from the Isan (northeastern) region of Thailand. We got on a bus and got off at the last stop in Pak Thong Chai, about 40 minutes outside of Khorat. We were dropped off at a silk fabric store, and after we mentioned to them that we wanted to go to a factory, they pointed left. So, uknowingly, we started walking left. Finally, after coming across some open area with a large building, thinking we had reached a factory, we entered and found out we were completely wrong. It was a daycare/ learning institute center of sorts. After asking for further directions, one of the women working there called her friend, who promptly arrived on a motorbike. She said she could only take one at a time, and that it was too far to walk. So, she first drove me to a silk factory, which was about a 5-10 minute motorbike ride, and then went back and picked up Liza.

How beautiful it was to see silk being woven into fabric on old looms! The patterns were magnificent and the workers happy. Also visiting were a couple of monks, with whom we struck up conversation, as one of them had previously spent time in L.A.! I tell the following story because it was absolutely hilarious, although maybe it was one of those things that you just had to be there for. As I was inspecting further into the factory, I looked back and noticed Liza talking to the one monk. He had informed her that his bag was made of pure Thai silk, for which she reached out to touch. He pulled back, and she reached out yet again, and he lunged backwards a second time. Monks are not allowed to touch women, for if they do, they must go through a lengthy cleansing process. Liza knew this, but was too overcome by the look and feel of silk to remember. It was pretty funny to watch.

While Liza practically bought out the whole store, I only returned to Sri Racha with a pillow from the silk factory, and a cotton one at that. But, for 100 baht, I am more than ecstatic with my beautiful Thai-style, rectangular-shaped pillow... it is one of my first material purchases in Thailand! After the shopping extravaganza, we asked one of the salesladies how we could catch the bus back to Khorat. She responded by holding up her car keys! Without question, she drove us to the bus stop in her truck.

We spent the rest of the day walking around Khorat, and after resting up in our
hotel, we ate one of the most delicious Isan-style meals at Rabiang Pa (below is my Goong Neung Kai Rot-Saep).

The staff was more than friendly and called a cab for us to reach our next destination - some bar that she had heard of, which was supposed to be 'the place to go', but turned out to be an over-priced nightclub. So, after one drink we left. We ended up at another beatiful bar/ restaurant and met a very interesting couple - an Austrian with his Thai boyfriend, 20 years his junior!

They then took us out to a more traditional, if such exists, Thai nightclub, for which they paid for. Afterwards, Liza and I stopped for street food, and asked one of the patrons where we could catch a tuk-tuk back to our hotel. He said if we waited a few moments until he finished his meal, he would drive us back on his motorbike! And he did with the utmost kindness.

I must say, really the purpose of writing and recalling all these random doings in Khorat is because what I remember most from this weekend trip is the kindness of the people. I have been continuously hearing that people from Isan are especially generous and genuinely kind and friendly. Isan has its own culture, with roots in rice paddies, ethnic minorities and a genuine, laid-back friendliness that is hard to capture without these minor stories. Everywhere we went, everyday people were more than willing to help, and went out of their way to make us feel comfortable in their home city. Spending any amount of time in Isan is truly an experience, and I believe that it is out of such a culture, that Thailand became known as the "Land of Smiles".

My return journey on Sunday was completely uneventful in a most pleasing way. I got on a direct bus from Khorat to Sri Racha, which turned out to be the nicest mode of public transportation I have yet been on. It was a double-decker bus that had a toilet, free water and snacks, and leg rests! Getting a direct bus in Thailand is key, although not always successful nor should they ever be held to expectations. Yet, surprisingly, I arrived back home on my street Soi Wat Wang Hin in five, yes five!, hours!