Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat)

Since Liza was headed back north, after her week in Sri Racha, and I only had to sign-in on Friday, I decided this past weekend was perfect for making the trek up to Isan (the northeastern region of Thailand, and what some might call 'real' Thailand). After jumping on yet another slow bus from Sri Racha to Bangkok, we arrived at Ekkomai station - the wrong station. We wanted to be at Mochit, which is the north and northeastern bus terminal, but we didn't know. So, we got on the Ekkomai BTS station (skytrain) and rode towards Mochit, which is on the BTS, albeit the complete other end. Once we arrived, we asked some friendly co-passengers for directions to the bus terminal. They actually came out of the BTS station to help us into a cab, as we were nowhere near where we wanted to be. I tell you, one needs patience to travel in Thailand!

About 7 hours later, we arrived in Khorat, the largest city in northeastern Thailand with an estimated population of 215,000. Liza lives and teaches in MuongKong (or something like that), which is about an hour and a half train ride outside of Khorat. So, we checked into a hotel, ate and went to bed.

Our objective was to see the silk factories, which we managed to do after yet another traveling experience to Pak Thong Chai on Saturday. Thailand, if you don't already know, is famous for its silk, which comes from the Isan (northeastern) region of Thailand. We got on a bus and got off at the last stop in Pak Thong Chai, about 40 minutes outside of Khorat. We were dropped off at a silk fabric store, and after we mentioned to them that we wanted to go to a factory, they pointed left. So, uknowingly, we started walking left. Finally, after coming across some open area with a large building, thinking we had reached a factory, we entered and found out we were completely wrong. It was a daycare/ learning institute center of sorts. After asking for further directions, one of the women working there called her friend, who promptly arrived on a motorbike. She said she could only take one at a time, and that it was too far to walk. So, she first drove me to a silk factory, which was about a 5-10 minute motorbike ride, and then went back and picked up Liza.

How beautiful it was to see silk being woven into fabric on old looms! The patterns were magnificent and the workers happy. Also visiting were a couple of monks, with whom we struck up conversation, as one of them had previously spent time in L.A.! I tell the following story because it was absolutely hilarious, although maybe it was one of those things that you just had to be there for. As I was inspecting further into the factory, I looked back and noticed Liza talking to the one monk. He had informed her that his bag was made of pure Thai silk, for which she reached out to touch. He pulled back, and she reached out yet again, and he lunged backwards a second time. Monks are not allowed to touch women, for if they do, they must go through a lengthy cleansing process. Liza knew this, but was too overcome by the look and feel of silk to remember. It was pretty funny to watch.

While Liza practically bought out the whole store, I only returned to Sri Racha with a pillow from the silk factory, and a cotton one at that. But, for 100 baht, I am more than ecstatic with my beautiful Thai-style, rectangular-shaped pillow... it is one of my first material purchases in Thailand! After the shopping extravaganza, we asked one of the salesladies how we could catch the bus back to Khorat. She responded by holding up her car keys! Without question, she drove us to the bus stop in her truck.

We spent the rest of the day walking around Khorat, and after resting up in our
hotel, we ate one of the most delicious Isan-style meals at Rabiang Pa (below is my Goong Neung Kai Rot-Saep).

The staff was more than friendly and called a cab for us to reach our next destination - some bar that she had heard of, which was supposed to be 'the place to go', but turned out to be an over-priced nightclub. So, after one drink we left. We ended up at another beatiful bar/ restaurant and met a very interesting couple - an Austrian with his Thai boyfriend, 20 years his junior!

They then took us out to a more traditional, if such exists, Thai nightclub, for which they paid for. Afterwards, Liza and I stopped for street food, and asked one of the patrons where we could catch a tuk-tuk back to our hotel. He said if we waited a few moments until he finished his meal, he would drive us back on his motorbike! And he did with the utmost kindness.

I must say, really the purpose of writing and recalling all these random doings in Khorat is because what I remember most from this weekend trip is the kindness of the people. I have been continuously hearing that people from Isan are especially generous and genuinely kind and friendly. Isan has its own culture, with roots in rice paddies, ethnic minorities and a genuine, laid-back friendliness that is hard to capture without these minor stories. Everywhere we went, everyday people were more than willing to help, and went out of their way to make us feel comfortable in their home city. Spending any amount of time in Isan is truly an experience, and I believe that it is out of such a culture, that Thailand became known as the "Land of Smiles".

My return journey on Sunday was completely uneventful in a most pleasing way. I got on a direct bus from Khorat to Sri Racha, which turned out to be the nicest mode of public transportation I have yet been on. It was a double-decker bus that had a toilet, free water and snacks, and leg rests! Getting a direct bus in Thailand is key, although not always successful nor should they ever be held to expectations. Yet, surprisingly, I arrived back home on my street Soi Wat Wang Hin in five, yes five!, hours!

Ko Si Chang Palace

Three friends came to visit this week, as our school had midterms and we were only required to sign-in in the mornings by 8 am. Their schools were closed to swine flu, (for which our English camp, which was supposed to be this coming weekend, was cancelled). Liza (from South Africa) and Denise (from Canada) both teach in a village about an hour and half outside of Khorat (in the northeastern part of Thailand - Nakhon Ratchasima, Isan), and had the week off due to swine flu, so came to Sri Racha to spend a relaxing week with Jacqueline and I. Bridget (from Connecticut) is a teacher in Takhli, Nakhon Sawan (where I did the English camp about a month ago), and had Mon-Wed off due to swine flu, so came down for a visit, as well.

We did a day trip to Koh Si Chang, the island about a 40 minute boat ride from Koh Loy Park, which is the pier about a 10 minute walking distance from my apartment. Jacqueline and I had been there before, but were more than happy to go back, as it is an awesomely and perfectly Thai island, non-touristy, perfect for exploring, nearby, beautiful, and apparently, we missed the main site the first time around. After we docked, the five of us managed to get an awesome tuk-tuk deal for the whole day for 250 baht! With starving bellies and after a few attempts at finding food, we finally came upon David and Pan's restaurant, which is mentioned in the Lonely Planet Guide. Amazing, and I think we couldn't stop smiling during our entire dining experience. I had crab in a spicy black pepper sauce - enough said.

Having spent more time there than we had expected, we headed off to spend the rest of the afternoon at the palace, of which we knew very little about, and still know very little about. Our tuk tuk driver dropped us off in front of some random, modern, museum-like building, which was closed. Puzzled, we walked around for a bit - where was this palace? Well, we never actually came across a palace, and from what I've researched since, it's actually no longer there!

We were at Hat Tha Wang Palace, which was once used as a summer palace by Rama V (King Chulalongkorn), until it was abandoned in 1893, when the French briefly occupied Ko Si Chang. The main throne hall is Vimanmek - the incredible teak mansion that I had previously visited in Bangkok! The mansion was moved to Bangkok in 1910. So, we spent the afternoon wandering around these random palace grounds, which turned out to be absolutely magnificent in its beauty, randomness, mystery and historical feel among nature unfettered by touristy crap.

The first, among many, odd things we came across was a massive, bulbous pool of sorts. It had a decorative trim and inside were the remnants of a pond (or pool) surrounding large, cement, bulb-like hills (man-made of course). The only other tourists that we managed to come across informed us that it was once his swimming pool! Well, we could not stop laughing at how dangerous this pool must've been! Was he trying to re-create an ocean-like feel, albeit, the palace grounds were right on the ocean!?!? Then, still confused by this so-called 'swimming' pool, we moved on... only to find many other such 'swimming' pools throughout the grounds, which seemed never-ending (and possibly could be, as we didn't have time to finish exploring). Each pool was just as random at the next, and each had a set of more than necessary staircases leading to and from nothing to these pools. Some stairways ended in the jungle, others ended into each other. The further on we went, the more we felt like we were in a labyrinth. Among the maze-like staircases, jungle-clad paths and bulbous 'swimming' pools, we also came across a fare share of random caves. Some of them had stairways leading into them... of course, I had to go exploring further. But, one in particular, ended up as just a cave at the bottom, with no outlet. In trying to make sense of this randomness (and there are no signs or explanations; mind you, we kind of were all along here), I decided that they were caves for slaves.

The dangerous 'swimming' pool...

Explorers from left to right: Denise, Bridget, Jacqueline, Liza and I

Explorers find... yet another random pool

The labyrinth of stairs leading into the jungle, or somewhere else unknown

The "slave cave"

We kept on walking and came across some random shrines, parts of archways on tops of cliffs, which we could not get to, and then from a distance, I saw a white spire on a hill-top. I texted my friends and told them to follow the trail and then look for the white spire! We could actually go inside this incredibly, European-style building, of sorts! Inside was a golden Buddha statue - and that's it. But, you must look at the photos (to the right and in the album) to really give this random spire building justification. After researching it later, I now know that this stupa, known as Wat Atsadangnimit, is where Rama V used to meditate. Just beyond the stupa was the Bell Rock, called such because it actually rings like a bell when struck! And just beyond that in the distance, we could see some ruins of another random-looking building of sorts, of which it seemed many paths led to, and yet, it was a matter of finding the right one amidst this labyrinth. Unfortunately, time was ticking, and we had to make it back to the last ferry by 6:00 pm. Another time...

The ceiling of the white stupa...

Inside the white stupa...

Below:

Just a random photo taken in a tuk-tuk... so Thai

Lopburi

Went to visit Angela (from London), who was my roommate during orientation, in her teaching hometown of Lopburi. Lopburi, or also known as "monkey town", played a central role in the empires during the Dvaravati, Khmer, Sukhothai and Ayuthaya eras. But today, the rulers of Lopburi are hundreds upon hundreds, perhaps thousands, of monkeys. While they reside mainly in the old town area around Prang Sam Yot shrine, they are everywhere... climbing up apartment buildings, on the roads, riding on the backs of trucks and on top of cars, crossing the streets, hanging from power lines and right in front of you wherever you step.

Angela said that the power in her

school has actually gone out a couple

of times due to these trouble-making

monkeys

My journey, and yes, it was a journey, began in Sri Racha at around 4:30 pm when I hopped on the slow bus to Bangkok. Three hours later, I arrived at Ekkomai bus station, got on the Ekkomai BTS line (the skytrain) to Asoke stop, where I transferred to the MRT (the underground subway) and rode to the end of the line to Hualamphong train station. Here, I got a 8:10 train out of Bangkok to Lopburi. However, typically Thai, the train didn't actually pull out until around 8:45 pm, and after about fifteen minutes of slow chugging, we stopped again for about a half hour. Despite the supposed 10:20 pm arrival in Lopburi, I reached the Lopburi train station around midnight, and then jumped on a motorbike taxi to Bowow (or something like that) club to meet Angela and friends. You can count, but I'll tell you... the journey consisted of five different modes of transportation!








The Lopburi Train Station







There were many foreign English teachers in Lopburi, most of which had been there for at least a couple of years; and, they've developed this community which meets up around one of two bars or one of three clubs. Angela, and other MediaKids teachers, reside in an apartment building across the railroad tracks, so to get into the old town area or to the local 7-Eleven shop, one must hop the railroad tracks, in order to avoid the lengthy walk to the crossing road. While walking through the old town area (Lopburi is distinctly split between old town and new town), we came across multiple ruins, which exist sandwiched between modern day Lopburi, and often with no signs or explanations.

On Saturday, we visited Phra Narai Ratchaniwet, the former royal palace Ayuthaya's King Narai (late 17th century). During this period, King Narai hosted many Western envoys, specifically and especially the French, who influenced much of the palace's architecture. In addition, due to the strong Khmer influence still presiding in this region, one can see the contribution of Khmer architecture and design as well. However, these are ruins, and despite the museum halls and guide book information, tourists are often left to wonder what such and such could have been. While in one of the ruins, a heavy rainstorm fell over Lopburi. Angela and I found cover under one of the ancient ruins' archways amidst the ruins of the foreign embassy court. While the rain only last about fifteen minutes or so, it was a pretty magical feeling, and we could almost feel ourselves float back in time.

An overgrown elephant, poor thing...

or an intentional mohawk

We then headed to Prang Sam Yot, a Hindu-turned-Buddhist temple, with an ancient Khmer feel to it. The real reason to visit this shrine? The monkeys, of course. Since Angela gets a bit skiddish being surrounded by so many monkeys, and because she had done it several times already, I went in alone! The shrine grounds are really quite small actually, and the whole square ground area is surrounded by modern-day Lopburi, so it seems quite a random site as well. I headed around to the back, but due to the hundreds upon hundreds of monkeys crawling everywhere, I stopped midway out of fear, and turned back. At this point, two girls (who are originally from the US, but have been teaching the Czech Republic for a few years and are here on a one month holiday) followed with a 10 year old boy guide. He carried but a slingshot in hand. He helped guide us through the monkeys, which he almost laughed at how scared we were, and even took our cameras to get some nice close-ups for us. We then entered the inside of the temple, in which there stand a couple of Buddha statues. However, I must admit the real reason to enter this shrine was to be caged in! Can you believe it? Well, it is a funny experience to put yourself in a cage and be surrounded by wild monkeys staring at you! But, we felt safer inside, and when we wanted leave, there was a guide at the outside gate letting us out.

A monkey was about to jump on my back, hence my awkward smile :o)

After some more walking and more ruins, the four of us headed to Noon Bar for some drinks, ate some amazingly delicious street food, said goodbye to our new friends, and then Angela and I headed back to Noon Bar, to be followed later by more Chang, to meet more new friends - other farang teachers. What an awesome little community amidst ancient ruins, dating back to the Dvaravati period (6th - 11th centuries).

My train ride back was quite easy, relatively quick, and uneventful, except for the free coke. When I boarded the train, it was pretty full, so I finally found a seat in the 'restaurant' car, of which I had no idea. Immediately, the old man who was selling snacks and drink gave me a coke, for which I said I didn't want. He motioned to me that I should take it and then opened it for me. Ok... and then he started telling other passengers something that I could not understand, for which they then promptly left the car and found somewhere else to sit, including in between cars! Many stops later, I finally figured out what was going on. Passengers are only allowed in the 'restaurant' car if one is getting snacks or drinks from the man. He must've been asking them if they wanted anything, and when they said 'no', he informed them of this rule (which I believe was written on a sign in the car, as well). Yet, he let me stay by giving me a free coke - very nice, but confusing in the beginning.

Please, please, please, look at my "Lopburi" photo album! It is full of some amazing ancient ruins photographs, of which wandering did me much good to find the hidden parts of the palace grounds.

T-I-T

Well, I guess I'm just about hitting that culture shock low point right about now, even though I'm still enjoying every last minute here, things seem to be falling apart, literally! My camera's zoom button is stuck, and once I get it moving, it can't stop! So, I wasn't able to take too many pictures of this past weekend.

Jacqueline and I had a pretty terrific weekend together, beginning with girls' night in on Friday, and then a relaxing, late-start Saturday morning/ afternoon, with lunch on Koh Loy Park. We then headed to the Khao Kheo open zoo in Bangpra, just north of Sri Racha. Without expecting much, we were incredibly surprised!! It is huge and beautiful and natural, and more than we could have imagined for Thailand. You must just hear about Jacqueline's Tiger Zoo experience, where in the middle of the jungle, they created fake jungle background drops amidst a cement zoo setting!! However, this open zoo was so huge, that one drives (car or motorbike) from one part to the next!! Because we got there later in the afternoon, and for reasons that we have no idea why, many of the exhibits, including the Cats Complex, were closed. In fact, the whole place (food stalls, etc.) seemed to be kind of closed, which seems odd for a Saturday afternoon. Who knows.... So, we went for a drive around the Bangpra mountains, which was absolutely beautiful, and though I regret not taking photos, I will definitely without a doubt be back. There are so many wonderful things to do in this area that we never even realized or were told of.

Sunday, Jacqueline and I went to The Pattaya Orphanage. Check out the link to the photos from this past weekend (yes, they post photos after every visit!) : http://www.thepattayaorphanage.org/updatenews/20090712_2/index.php?swf=20090712_2&co=e. We enjoyed a lovely pizza lunch in Pattaya, and then after our afternoon visit, we went back for some Subway!! and ate on the beach.

Sunday night - my computer turned on, but nothing appeared on the screen and there are no sounds coming from Kyle, my computer. As of now, my computer has been seen by two different people, one which said it is a hardware problem, the other said: "Your server is fried!" That is certainly no translation issue, but words that no one ever wants to hear!! Tomorrow, I am taking it to another store, where hopefully they can give it another go. If not, then sometime this week, I must go to Chonburi, about 45 minutes north of Sri Racha, and take it to the HP service center. Who knows if this will all even work, and while I have been keeping my 'cool' about it thus far, I might very well have a mini-meltdown about it soon enough!

T-I-T continued... Next week is midterm examination week, and Ms. Bpun had told us three about it a couple weeks ago, before our holiday last week. At first she just told us about the examinations occurring, and then after further questioning, we realized we would not even have classes due to the exams all next week! After Ms. Bpun realized what this meant for us, she agreed that we would just have to come in each day to sign in (Thais are obsessed with sign-in/ sign-out sheets, even when they really mean nothing). However, after H, J and I discussed the pointlessness of coming in to school each morning just to sign in, we agreed to all approach Ms. Bpun nicely and simply ask for the week off, being that we do not have any classes or any work to do. Wouldn't it be nice to have a week off to explore Thailand? So, while we planned to ask her our first two days back from holiday (last Thursday and Friday), Ms. Bpun was sick. Yesterday, Monday, was the first day we saw her back at school, so we met with her during Lunch and nicely put forward the idea. She said she would speak to the director (the principal of Sri Racha school) about us not coming in for the week. Well... we shot ourselves in the foot, so to say. After speaking with the director, Ms. Bpun then informed us that she, the director, actually wants us to be here the whole week and for the entire day, every day! The director said she has work for us! So, the saying goes... be happy with what you have, and don't push it (or something like that). Though, with that being said, we all genuinely thought we had a chance to get the week off, but now instead of just signing in each day, we must come in to do some random work for the director. As of right now, this work is very unclear, but was suggested as something like creating lesson plans for other teachers - what!?!?!?

T-I-T continued... So, today I have two M4 classes (M4/5 and M4/6). M4/5 was right before lunch, and many of the boys (about 15 of them) were missing due to military stuff. I casually asked the Thai English teachers at lunch what this was about, solely out of curiosity more than anything else! And, after some explanation (something like the ROTC), it became slightly clear that I would never see these boys again! Yes, your expression was exactly mine... "what do you mean? I don't get it." Well, so it turns out that every Tuesday, M4 boys must do ROTC stuff for the rest of the semester. So, obviously, I asked, "Well, do I cross their names out?" The reply was "No, they are still in the class, you must just teach them through the girls." What?!?! Well, after some back and forth, the suggestion was put out there that I would teach an extra class at the end of the day for all my Tuesday M4 boys. How do I give them grades if they are never present for speaking and listening tests? How do I give them or return their worksheets? How will they understand the lesson? What is the point in giving them the worksheets or tests if they are never even there for the lesson? Well, to say the least, I could feel my veins surging with frustration, so I decided to leave it at that, which is nowhere. As of right now, I must hand in midterm grades for all of them next week, but the boys will have missed the listening exam. Who knows.... ughhhh. Plus, what if I had never even bothered to ask about the missing boys? Would anyone have told me? Probably not... and I suppose "what if" scenarios are useless at this point anyway.

Swine Flu - well, I'm not sure what the US news is sharing about Swine Flu in Asia, or in Thailand, specifically. But, so far, quite a few of the government schools (where our friends teach) throughout Thailand have been closed for some days here and there due to swine flu. Sri Racha School has remained open, and in fact, had a health talk a couple weeks ago regarding the health safety of students. Some health official came to school today, and pulled out M1s, M2s and M3s from their morning classes (of course without our knowledge) to discuss swine flu. But, no one tells us anything! More and more people, including students, everyday are wearing the face masks, and when we ask other tennants in our apartment building, they say it is getting worse. Apparently, according to a couple of different sources, Thailand's government is seriously considering closing all government schools because of swine flu. How long? Really, like we have any idea? This could be all talk, or this could be very serious, and we all might be out of a job soon. But, we'll just have to wait and see. Jacqueline and I were just talking tonight about how it really is only a matter of days now before our school closes, at least for a few days, due to swine flu.

So, that's my T-I-T news for now...

Trapped in my bathroom!!

Just one of those days! Well, actually I would say it began last night, when I arrived at my apartment after our holiday, I was welcomed by hundreds of tiny ants all over my floor, desk, chair, refrigerator and wall! I cleaned them up, and they came back. Mind you, I don't eat in my apartment, because I discovered these little guys the first few times I tried to eat here, but never so many at once! I bought spray, and killed them all, cleaned up the bodies, and a few hours later, there were more - which died on their way out, so I'm now constantly cleaning up dead ants in my apartment.

This morning, after my shower, I reached for the doorknob - nothing budged. I close the door, so as to avoid fanned air (I do not have hot water) and to avoid getting water in my main apartment area (there is no shower separation in the bathroom). Well, in short - I got locked in the bathroom for about 40 minutes! Luckily, there is a small window (for ventilation) above the toilet. So, I climbed up the toilet (as I'm now an expert climber!) and opened up the ventilation screen and poked my head out, as much that could fit, and started screaming for Howard. His apartment is next to mine, although with a space in between (where the stairway is on the inside). He often keeps his balcony door open with just the screen shut, so I was hoping for this to be the case. After about five minutes of yelling his name, he came out on the balcony brushing his teeth. He later told me that he was watching t.v. whilst getting ready, and could've sworn he heard his name being called, but didn't think too much of it, until it became clear that the voice seemed urgent. He was thinking, "Well, why doesn't she just come knock on my door?!" Hahhaaa. Jacqueline, too, also heard me, but she was half-sleeping still and thought she was dreaming someone yelling Howard's name.

He went downstairs to get my apartment's key from the landlady, came and tried to open the bathroom door - still, nothing budged. Finally, the helper downstairs came up along with the landlady, and tried - to no avail. So, they had to call a locksmith, who came in a hurry. She ended up having to unscrew the entire doorknob off! I got out just after 8:00 am and made it to school just in time for my first two classes, thanks to Howard who waited for me with his motorbike!

I arrived at school, only to be welcomed by a pile of ants on my desk! I didn't have much time to be annoyed or clean them up, as I had to rush off to my first period - M4/7 - which was horrible! I had about 20 students absent (due to swine flu and other various illnesses or extended holidays), and the rest of the class that did come to school acted half-dead. They were completely unresponsive, and after calling in a Thai teacher and trying to talk to them myself about their behavior, I gave up. I stopped teaching about 20 minutes into class. I told the students that I wasn't going to teach a class that didn't want to learn. I mean, I would try to pass out worksheets to them, and they wouldn't even reach out to grab it from me! So, I sat down and got my paperwork in order, which I needed to do anyway, since I didn't have time before. One of the students, Nut, who is the best in the class (class leader), asked me, "Teacher, are you angry with us?" I replied, "No, Nut, I am not angry, I am just not going to teach a class that is completely unresponsive to anything that I am saying or doing. You do not repeat after me when I ask you too, none of you have your vocabulary worksheets, half of the class is gone, and half of you here have your heads on the desk!" I noticed some of the students getting together and pulling out dictionarys. At the end of class, Nut came up to me with a note that they had all written together. It said something to the effect of: "Teacher, we are very sorry. We promise to do better next week. Please give us another chance next week, we promise to try harder. We just want another chance."

From there, my day got better... and as I type this, I only have about 20 or so dead ants in my view from sitting at my computer. Again... just one of those days, but I laughed about it, and still am, as I'm sure many of you are, which always makes any bad situation better.

Kongoi Jungle Trekking

One of the coolest experiences ever, and probably my favorite thus far in Thailand. On Tuesday, Jacqueline and I signed up for what was supposed to be a leisurely trek through the Kongoi Jungle at the south of Koh Chang. Raht, our guide, picked us up at 8:00 am and then we headed south in the jungle trek sawngtao. Along the way we picked up C.J., a phys-ed teacher from Calfornia here on summer holiday to go climbing in Krabi, and Louise and Kasper, a danish couple who run their own circus, and apparently do all their own acts, in Thailand on a two week holiday. After dousing ourselves in deet, we headed into the jungle with Raht, who immediately we decided was a jungle-man! He was born on Koh Chang and grew up on the island, although he previously studied foreign affairs in Bangkok with the hopes to become a diplomat, he loves the jungle - this was very apparent throughout our entire trek; he clearly loves his job.

Jungle Monkey eating Mangosteen

This was no leisurely trek, and it is definitely not for the faint-hearted. We did some serious climbing up and down jungle mountains, through areas where there wasn't even a path, and crossed multiple streams and rapids where the rocks were so slippery, one has to get down on all fours to make it across safely. We entered bamboo forests, where we could see monkeys swinging from bamboo to bamboo, while cicadas whistled in the background. Raht tried to tempt out tarantulas from their holes, and took up close pictures for us. We swang on jungle rope - which seemed right out of a movie - "Tarzan" to be specific. We saw camoflouge trees - all natural, though they looked as if they were painted - in fact, the ones in which the US army fatigues are based off of.

We stopped for lunch at, what they call a waterfall, but what we might call a series of large rapids, or small river waterfalls. There, we rested and went swimming in the clean jungle mountain water. Then, Raht began asking us what we did for exercise... and then he said if we wanted, and felt we were fit enough, we could do a hardcore trek through the waterfalls. Kasper, C.J., Jacqueline and I all headed up the river into the waterfalls, while Louise did some river R & R. Raht started the serious trek with "When I swim, you swim. When I jump, you jump. Wherever I put my foot, you put your foot. Follow me, and do not attempt shortcuts!" What were we in for? Wow, did we accomplish a dangerous and seriously extreme adventure trek. He took us across the rapids and up the multiple waterfalls. To get to the bottom of the waterfalls, we had to all grab each other's hands to pass through the extreme rushing currents, and then swim hard and fast through the whirlpool at the bottom and grab onto a rock. We placed our feet in nooks and crannys to climb up, while the water poured down on our heads - which made it hard for me to even see where I was going! I just had to reach out. At a top point, our destination, one hour later, we swam through the most intense rush of waters to get into a cave behind the waterfall. We went one at a time. It took Jacqueline and I a few tries to make it across, and when we failed, we floated backwards with the current and had to grab onto a rock, before we were taken away down the waterfall below! Mind you, throughout this whole waterfall adventure trek, Raht warned us that the cobras of the jungle can swim on water, so to keep an eye out! During one of Jacqueline's attempts to get into the cave, as she floated backwards, and I grabbed her arm, there was a massively sized spider spotted! I was holding onto a rock, half in the water, half out, and all the sudden I heard Jacqueline call it out (though I thought she was nervous about being pulled backwards), and then noticed Kasper (who was seriously terrified of spiders) and C.J. jump up on rocks faster than I can even say "spider". It was quite a funny sight, as I didn't even see it, though I'm sure if I had, I would have been up on a rock just as fast. Meanwhile, Raht is behind the waterfall in the cave laughing at us.

As dangerous and scary as the waterfall adventure was, Jacqueline and I both noted that we felt extremely comfortable with the fact that there were three guys with us - all of whom were in fit condition, and helped us along the way. The hardest part about it was finding your footing, especially going up the waterfall, as one could easily miss, slip and go rushing down. We all made it out without a scratch. Then, it was time to make it back, which for obvious reasons, we could not go down the same way we came up. So, Raht led us into the straight jungle - barefoot! Wow, did we feel like jungle people all of the sudden.

After lunch, we had another couple hours of trekking, in which along our path we came across multiple herds of termite, biting ants - the ones that latch onto you, and you have to physically pull them out if they start biting! So, when Raht said "run", we sprinted through them. All of the sudden, I found myself to be a long jumper! I never knew my legs to jump so far!

As Jacqueline puts it... our first taste of the jungle

Checking out the rubber trees - it produces rubber like sap, and tough enough to pull on!

A natural rubber ring mark

Natural Jungle Rope

Bamboo Forest

Following closely behind Raht, our jungle guide

Raht was trying to coax this guy out...

Jungle Face Painting

Jungle Trekkers with war paint

Natural Camoflouge Trees!

Tree Climbers!

Raht and Kasper blending in...

Jungle Swingers

For the last leg of the trip, we had to cross a rushing river, for which there used to be a bridge, but it broke down, and no one ever fixed it! We had to all hold hands (boy-girl-boy-girl-boy-girl) and walked through it sideways, taking step by step to prevent being pulled away by the strong current.

Really... not as easy as it looks here, or we wouldn't all be holding hands

Seven hours later, we came out of the jungle, coverd in bug bites, sweaty and smelly, all with wet sneakers (as we eventually gave up on taking off and putting back on our shoes while crossing the rivers), tired and absolutely thrilled from the adrenalin rush of what we had just accomplished! Wow! I think I'm ready for an overnight stay next time... anyone want to join?

Jacqueline and I later discussed how much that trip was so not leisurely - and they should change their advertisements! But, we also think that maybe Raht assessed his group, and figured that since he was leading five, young, fit people through the jungle, he would take it up a few notches.

Diving at the South of Koh Chang

It is the slow season in Thailand all around due to the weather. Right now, it is the rainy season, which originally was a concern for travelling to Koh Chang, as the word around was that it would rain non-stop. While it did rain, it didn't hinder any of the activities that we wanted to do, including beach R & R. It rained in the early morning and a few times in the evening. The rainy season also, obviously, affects the waters which affect the diving situations - in terms of visibility and current.

But, I spoke with White Sands Dive Center on Saturday, when I first arrived, and asked them about the condition. Divers don't lie about weather conditions just to get money, as divers want other divers to enjoy the experience just as much as they would want to (at least in my experiences, thus far). Pon, my divemaster, informed me that they were having visibility up to 15 meters!! So, I booked on Sunday, and went diving on Monday. We drove to the very southern tip of the island, hooked up with another diving company, since there was just the two of us, and better to save on a boat trip and crew (for the diving companies to split). John, a camera man from L.A. had just finished shooting an independent film in Cambodia, and was now vacationing for a week in Thailand (Koh Chang and Bangkok). He was working on his open water diving certification with his dive instructor, Patrick (an ex-pat from Finland). However, we each did our own separate dives, and did not even see each other, unless we were on the boat. John was working on his buoyancy, whereas I was actually doing a dive, as an already certified open water diver.

I got two dives (200 bar/ tank) for 2,500 baht, including all transportation, equipment and lunch. It was a pretty great deal, thanks to the slow season. There was also not one snorkeler in sight... and Patrick was telling me that during the busy, tourist season, the waters are covered with orange life jackets, as they sometimes have 300 snorkelers at one time! (I don't know if I want to go during the busy season, as from all the stories we heard, it just would not be quite as enjoyable, even though Koh Chang is still pretty unknown - it is becoming a vacation destination more and more, as blogs like mine get posted - the word is getting out.)

The first dive was at Hin Lab, where I stayed under for 72 minutes, and the second in Bobrine for 63 minutes (both the longest times I have yet been under). I saw blue-spotted ribbon-tailed lagoon rays, yellow-edged moray eels, box fish, a massive jelly-fish and floated my way through schools of thousands of fish, and much, much more!! We had 12 meters visibility and although the current was a bit rough at the top, it wasn't so bad below, and I was able to just lay buoyant in the middle of the ocean - 12 meters deep. It was an awesome experience, and Pon was a great divemaster. He grew up in Isan (northeast Thailand), and moved down to Koh Chang ten years ago to dive. It turned out that he is good friends with Raht, the jungleman (next story)! Sorry, but I have no diving photos, except for one of my equipment being put onto the boat. But I do have a couple of the views from down south.

Heading to the dive center in the early morning hours...