Luang Prabang, Laos

We finally arrived in Luang Prabang, Laos - A UNESCO World Heritage Center that exemplifies a beautiful fusion of French colonial architecture and the heart and soul of urban Laos. As Lonely Planet puts it, "Luang Prabang is a tonic for the soul." Because it is Unesco Heritage Listed, buses and trucks are banned from the city streets. We stayed at a really adorable guesthouse, Merry 2 Guesthouse, owned by a family. All five of us were able to fit in one dorm style room, and we even had a huge balcony!

This adorable and dreamy city was once the ancient royal city of Laos while under French colonization, and the remnants of this history are easily seen in the tiny streets lined with wine bars and cute cafes selling baguettes. It's the kind of city where one can easily get lost in time, stay longer than planned, and sit down at a wine cafe along the Nam Khan River and become a writer or artist all of the sudden. The city is surrounded by mountains, where a dreamy fog sits on the peaks all day long, while the sun shines through the small, cobblestone streets. "... Gleaming temples, French-era palace and villas, multiethnic peoples who live here give Luang Prabang a romantic and relaxed feel that can captivate even the most jaded travellers."

It was a perfect city for a birthday celebration! It was J's birthday while we were in Luang Prabang, and we celebrated by having a few bottles of wine - two at a wine bar and one on the balcony of our guesthouse room by candle light. How romantic for us five girls!

We spent a day doing some hardcore (for us, at least) activities that was well worth every calorie burned and every scrape, bruise and muscle ache. The first half of the day, the five of us were led by a guide through the mountains of rural Laos, about a 45 minute drive from Luang Prabang. We hiked through the jungle, through fields and villages, and plantations of various products (rubber, tobacco, etc.). We came upon the Hoify Village, where we were able to meet some of the local villagers, capture some amazing photographs, and rest our feet. Then, we continued trekking to Tat Kuang Si - one of the most amazing natural wonders I have ever seen! It is a multi-tiered, shaded waterfall that tumbles over limestone formations into a series of cool, turquoise pools, which are perfect for swimming - especially for tired jungle trekkers, such as ourselves. To come upon this sight after sweating in the searing sun of the Laotian jungle mountains was jaw-dropping. The crazy thing about this beautiful place is that it is all natural, even though it is so incredible that one just can't help think that it is man-made.

The second half of our day trip was kayaking down (or up?) the Nam Khan River. While relaxing for our feet and surrounded by stunning rural scenery, our arms got the best of us and we felt like dropping into a heap of limbs by the end. Highlight of the kayaking trip: Bridget and I almost bumped right into some water buffalo, as we thought they were rocks, but as we paddled a bit closer, we then noticed the giant horns sticking out of the water and then the nostrils and tired eyes. Yikes!

On the morning of our last day, we woke up at 5:00 am to watch the monks receive alms as they silently tiptoe through the lazy streets of Luang Prabang. We had heard that this is one of the best places to see the monks' morning ritual... it is just magnificently magical!

Not totally wanting to say goodbye to Luang Prabang just yet, we unfortunately had to leave that day to get to our next destination - Vang Vieng. Only about a 1/2 hour into the packed mini-van journey, we were pulled over due to a road block and discovered that all transportation headed in that direction were stopped. All passengers were sitting and standing and waiting on the side of the road for.... a bike marathon/ race to pass through! We waited there for over an hour, and saw maybe 10 cyclists pass through. Welcome to a 3rd world country. Welcome to Southeast Asia. Welcome to Laos!

Laotian workers we saw along our trek

Trekking

It was tough hiking up the mountain, but sooo worth it!

In Hoify Village

Tat Kuang Si Waterfall

The water buffalo we almost hit while kayaking

The ice cream man that convinced Bridget and I to buy some of his ice cream: "The children don't want today; it is cloudy. Please, buy some ice cream, no children want today..." Really, how could you refuse?

The SLOW Boat

J, Kelly, Georgeanna, Bridget and I chose to take the SLOW boat into Luang Prabang, Laos. A choice that I don’t regret, but I would never do again… why? Because it was so very, very slow! However, the scenery along the Mekong River was breathtaking, and really offers a true view of rural Laos (well, most of Laos is rural). We departed our lovely guesthouse BaanRimtaling in Chiang Kong, the small, mountain border town in Thailand, and crossed the Mekong River in a tiny boat to reach Huay Xai, the border town in Laos. After immigration, we were shuttled to a restaurant type area, where all slow boat passengers were briefed on how the slow boat days would go down.

The slow boat into Luang Prabang would take two days, eight hours each day! By hour six, we were going a little crazy. We even resorted to playing M.A.S.H (reminder: Mansion, Apartment, Shack or House). We played cards, mind-reading games, drank a few beers, slept, read, listened to IPods, took tons of pictures, chatted with fellow passengers, shared stories, and still we always seemed to have at least a few hours left with nothing to do.

I suppose it wouldn’t have been so much to complain about, had the slow boat seating arrangements at least been comfortable. Rather, the boat, itself, was overstuffed to a point where passengers had to sit near the engine, and in the back of the boat, where people usually aren’t meant to be. It was two people to a seat, or rather – a bench, a little, tiny wooden bench that had a very stiff, straight back. The seat part of the bench was only wide enough to fit half of your butt cheek. After hour two, half of the passengers were passed out or reading on the boat floor. We did a switch-off, with one person on the floor leaning against the uneven, interior side of the boat, and the other bench partner stiffly sprawled across the bench, with legs sticking half off into the ‘aisle’.

Somehow, though, it all seemed to work … and I don’t regret our decision to take the slow boat at all, because, well – the photos speak for themselves: http://picasaweb.google.com/Lia.Brezavar/LaosSlowBoat#.

We spent the night (in between the two slow boat days) in Pak Beng, Laos. This is a nothing, nowhere, small, mountain town, that I believe only exists because of the slow boat. It is half-way between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang. When we stepped off the slow boat, in the dark, we were bombarded by flashlights shining in our eyes and bargaining voices all around. The guesthouse ‘bargainers’ were out in full force to greet the slow boat passengers with places to stay, poster boards full of pictures and amenities that are offered, and prices to bargain with. However annoying this may sound, it actually worked out best, as it was dark out, and it allowed for great deals! We were instantly surrounded by at least four men trying to sell us a room in their guesthouse for the night, and we went back and forth from one to the other, until we got the best deal. The other men kept lowering their offers to compete, but we eventually went with the guy who made the first, lowest offer. We followed him up the single, main road, lined with guesthouses, restaurants with menus in English, and little ‘bodega’ shops.

After a comfortable, relaxing, candlelit, delicious dinner, we tucked ourselves into bed, in two separate rooms. A few hours later, Bridget (my roomie) and I awoke to pounding on our door. It was Beyonce, the young man that sold us the guesthouse room, probably drunk and knocking on our door. His bed, oddly enough, was right outside our window. He then proceeded to try and get in through the window. Bridget and I froze in our beds in silence, until he finally gave up and fell asleep. Only an hour or so later (who knows, because we were sleeping), we awoke to drunken, hymnal songs in the hallways. The next morning, we found out that Georgeanna, Kelly and J also had awoken in the middle of the night to random pounding on their door. It was scary in the night, but we could only laugh about it the next morning. And, then… back onto the slow boat for another eight hours.

Kelly and J on the slow boat

Bridget and I in Pak Beng, about to start day #2

Chiang Mai/ Chiang Khong

No hassle (no getting kicked off the bus this time) 2 1/2 hour bus ride from Sri Racha to On Nut BTS station in Bangkok. Took the BTS to Asoke, then transferred to the MRT line. Arrived at Hualomphong train station, got my ticket: 2nd class seat w/ A/C. 7:20 departure. We left on the dot to the minute- unbelievable in Thailand. I almost missed the train, with my stuff on it while out on the platform having a cigarette.

The train was just a few cars, as the sleeper car (on which there were no more available seats) was unattached to this train. Maybe it left before. I never saw it. I would have thought all the classes and cars departing at 7:20 to Chiang Mai overnight would have been attached. Who knows... it's Thailand.

The floor was littered with dead and live cockroaches of all sizes. They were even crawling on the seats, so I was armed with my book shoving them off the seat next to me, and made sure to keep my feet up. The first seat I was in (at the very, very front of the train) started leaking. The light on the ceiling started dripping some unknown clear liquid (perhaps, just water), so I moved across. After about an hour or so, some unknown brown liquid starting dripping on the new seat, so I moved again - backwards. I finally got it right. They served me an iced tea and a small dinner with a little pastry dessert, as well as a blanket.

Bridget hopped on in Nakhon Sawan at 10:30 pm. By this point, the lights were already off. We were going to get a few beers to rock it on the train, but with the lights off and the few others on the train already nodding off, we rightfully decided against it.

All in all, we had a fitful night of constantly switching positions to try and get it just right. We did each have two seats, which had a nice, far recline. It wasn't the worst nor the most ideal by any means.

We arrived in Chiang Mai at 7:45 am. Met up with Georgeanna, Kelly, J, Emily, Caroline (and some others) at Smile Guesthouse. Went to a most awesome breakfast, and then chilled out at the pool all day. (I will fully do Chiang Mai another time). We went the weekend night market - and I bought more than I have my entire time yet in Thailand! Really, I just bought fisherman pants and a scarf (I don't know, but we all bought scarves, because you know, we need them in Thailand and all)...

We are now waiting for the 5 hour bus (departing at 1:00 pm) to Chiang Khong, the Thai border town, along the Mekong River. We will cross into Laos tomorrow morning.

Last Week!

So, it is finally and actually my last week this semester! I will be staying next semester in Sri Racha, beginning on November 2nd. Until then, I have 6 weeks (unpaid) vacation! My plans ...

On Saturday afternoon, I am getting on a bus to Bangkok (and hopefully, won't get kicked off this time), and then onto the BTS to switch to the subway to get to Hualamphong train station. Then, I am getting on the 7:20 pm overnight rapid, express train to Chiang Mai. Bridget is getting on the same train in Nakhon Sawan, and hopefully we'll find each other. There were no more sleeping cars available, so we will be rockin' the night out on seats in an air-conditioned 2nd class car. We should arrive in Chiang Mai at 7:40 am on Sunday, September 20th. We are then meeting up with Georgeanna, Kelly and J, and headed to a small town outside of Chiang Mai to spend the night.

Early Monday morning, we are catching the slow boat (2 days) into Luang Prabang, Laos. Our plans there are that we have no itinerary, so I will write from there. I plan to spend about a week in Laos, and then the rest of the girls are headed into Vietnam. I will leave to head back into Thailand, probably via bus with a night stop over in Vang Vieng, Laos. Once I get back into Thailand, I have to make my way to Mochit Northeastern bus terminal, and catch a bus to Sangklaburi in Kanchanaburi. From there I will get into a truck and head to Ban Dada Children's home (www.bandada.org), near the Myanmar border. I plan to spend almost 2 weeks there.

Kara arrives in Bangkok on October 16th at 7:00 pm, so I will head to Bangkok that day, check-in to our hotel (still to be determined) and then go pick her up at the airport. We plan to spend a couple days in Bangkok and then go to Sri Racha for a couple of days. From there, back to Bangkok to catch a flight on October 21st to Phuket. We will do one or two nights in Phuket, then head to the island of Ko Phi Phi, and from there a boat to Krabi. October 29th, we will fly from Krabi back to Bangkok, with four hours to spare before Kara departs Thailand. And, I will head home to Sri Racha...

Lots up ahead... keep following. I will try to update as much as possible. Love you all!!

Sunset

Thanks Jacqueline for grabbing this photo. (My camera is having serious issues at the moment) This photo was taken from her apartment's balcony. Wow!

English Camp!!!

9/9/09 @ 9:09

I was in class this morning, 1/11, when Pi-ow came in and informed me that I must get the students organized and lined up in the hallways for "the singing to the King". All students in every building lined up in the hallway, facing the flag and sang to the King of Thailand for about 10 minutes, a very sentimental and sweet moment.

After class, Pi-Nuy told me that today is a very special day; it is 9/9/09. "9" is "gaew" in Thai, which also means "progress". Due to the many problems Thailand has been having over the last couple of years (especially regarding the prime minister), the Thai government decided to make note of today, and what it means for Thailand's future. They organized the ENTIRE COUNTRY to sing to the King at exactly 9:09 AM. WOW!!! Every single person sang to the King at 9:09 on 9/9/09.

In addition to "Progress" and Thailand's future, Pi-Nuy also stressed that the King is very sick. He is well into his 80s and if you don't know, he is the longest reigning and living King in the world, at this moment. She described her emotions while singing at 9:09 as "very sad because we Thai people don't know what we are going to do after the King dies. We are unsure of what will happen to Thailand. I, we, just can't imagine Thailand without our King."

Acknowledging the past and thinking forward, progress, service to King and country, prayer, song and UNITY... This is Thailand.

Farewell to Friends in Ayuthaya... and the long journey there

My Friday night journey - what a nightmare! Although, it really wasn't that bad, all was completely unplanned for and unexpected - ah, so Thailand!

As usual, the journey began with hopping on a bus to Bangkok; however, this time, I was headed to Mochit Bus Terminal - the north/ northeastern bus terminal, and 10x larger than Ekkomai. Often times, the bus 'manager' makes us switch busses, by pulling us off and leading us onto another bus that is heading straight to the wanted destination, and then they pay off the other bus 'manager' what is left of the bus fare. Well, I got kicked off in Bang Na, about an hour outside of Bangkok. The bus 'manager' motioned to me, hurriedly saying, "Mochit, Mochit?" I promptly got up, followed him to the front of the bus, and while on the last step, I turned around and said (in Thai) "Where?" He pointed to a bunch of public busses lining up on the street on the other side, and then with one step off the bus, I asked for money. He waved his hands and shut the door and bus sped off. So, yeah, I got kicked off. But, in a way, it was a message heard from above - because I had to pee sooooo bad, that I was going to get off soon anyway or pee in my pants right there in the bus seat. And, luckily he dropped/ kicked me off in front of a huge department store, so without even thinking about what was to come, I immediately went to the bathroom.

Then, I had a cigarette, and finally was in a state to figure out what to do next. I went to one of the many bus stops (it was a very busy area), and found three young Thai girls to ask where I could catch the bus to Mochit. It turned out that they three were also heading to the bus terminal. So we all got on a public bus together (picture below), for 9 baht and an hour trip to On Nut BTS station, the last stop on the southern end of the skytrain system. Then we took the BTS for 40 minutes, riding to the end of the line, and got off at Mochit BTS Station. Mind you, this is not the bus terminal. Normally (and I've done this only once before), you have to take a taxi from the BTS station to the bus terminal.

I kept telling the one Thai girl, who spoke the most English (and still very little at that) that we would have to take a taxi anyway from the BTS station, because she kept saying, "no taxi, no taxi". Her response was "No, BTS much faster, traffic bad, no taxi." Yes, I got that, but I knew we would have to get in a taxi later anyway, and I just wanted to confirm that they were doing this as well. I eventually gave up, and when we got outside the Mochit BTS station, I felt like saying, "see, this is what I meant." But, I think they got it and knew it and were just lost in translation about what I was saying before.

Anyhow, no taxis wanted to take us to the bus terminal because the traffic was too bad. It seemed worse than normal, and I think there was something going on. So, they were finally able to convince two motorbike taxis to take us there - albeit, we went speeding in between cars onto oncoming traffic, much closer than I am comfortable with (though, that is how you do in Thailand, at least if you want to get anywhere by motorbike). The Thai girl nicely paid for the taxi. Her friends must've gotten dropped off somewhere else, because after many back-and-forth phone calls, she started to panic. We walked around in circles around the huge, dark and grimy back parking lots of the massive bus terminal. Mochit is so crowded, dirty, loud, confusing, and just plain unpleasant. We finally went inside one of the many floors, and she asked the many ticket counters about a bus for me to Ang Thong.

I was planning on heading to Ang Thong to stay with Allie for the night, and then we were going to go to Ayuthaya together on Saturday.

"Don't have. Come back tomorrow, 5 AM" was the response I kept getting over and over. Then, I asked about Ayuthaya; same response. You can imagine how my heart and legs just sank beneath me. After all that, I finally arrived here only to find out they had finished services to this area. The girl finally left to find her friends, and I called Jacqueline, who was en route to Mochit Bus Terminal from Sri Racha. She was also going to spend the night in Ang Thong, but just left Sri Racha a couple hours after me.

We both decided I would just wait there for her. I got something to eat, well, quite a few things. And then, I just sat and waited. The place was crawling with hundreds upon hundreds of people, many with lots of luggage, many looking quite nomadic. It was dark and dingy, and definitely made me feel like I was in a refugee camp. Not a fun place to be, at all.

Jacqueline finally made it there after 9, and we jumped into a taxi towards Saphan Kwai, the area closest to the bus terminal with hotels. After checking out a few, with prices too high for our budget, we actually ended up in The Suda Palace Hotel - this is where we had our orientation! Can you believe it? We couldn't. But we made a late night of Chang and 4:00 am McDonald's delivery. Yup, that's right, we ordered McDonald's, which was promptly delivered to our hotel room door. Amazing. A good end to a long and arduous day.

The next late morning, we decided to skip the bus ride, were too far from the train terminal, so we opted for the mini-vans from Victory Monument. We arrived in Ayuthaya only an hour and a half later, or so, and after some walking around we ended up with our friends at Ayuthaya Hotel. We didn't see any of the sights in Ayuthaya; in fact, we only saw half the street of our hotel and around the corner down some side street, where Chang House was - home to our nightly activities.

There were about 11 of us in total, most from orientation, and a few boyfriends. Three girls are leaving in 2 weeks: Liza, from South Africa, Angela from London, and Ally from Texas. So, this was our farewell night out in a place we could all get too. And what a night it was. I won't get into the random drunken shennanigans that occurred, but we had a grand ole' time, and a few of us even got in some late-night swimming in the pool at our hotel.

Obviously, the trip wasn't at all about Ayuthaya, but rather friends... so my pictures, of course, are all from the night out - probably boring, unless you are one of them. :o)

The public bus to Bangkok (with wooden floors)

From left to right: Me, Jacqueline, Ally, Liza, Jen, Bridget and Maddy